Western Cantabria - 12th–20th June

Friday - Immediate impression on arriving at Santillana Campsite; lovely; immaculate pitches, fabulous setting and, in the distance, the Picos de Europa mountain range. Snags – long walk to the toilet block at least 100 yards away so we allow plenty of time! Thank God Graham insisted on having a toilet in the van! The so-called supermarket is in the bar/restaurant, a couple of shelves with odd bits – no use to us at all although we can get fresh bread in the morning.

However, the gem is Santillana del Mar, which is a five minute walk away. It’s a stunning medieval town (although the size of a large village) dominated by a church overlooking a large cobbled piazza. Spotted a good tapas bar which we’ll try one night, although after a few vino tintos I’m not so sure we’ll be fit to climb the 1 in 4 hill back to the campsite.

Saturday - FOUND CARREFORS! We needed to - running out of all supplies. Our neighbours on the next pitch (a lovely Dutch couple called Herman and Anke) gave us directions. We stocked up on wine - and as an afterthought got some food too! After a disaster with the BBQ (we were sold the wrong gas bottle in the UK) our “other side” neighbour Eric suggested we try a local camp shop they’d used. The owner spoke brilliant English (had very nice blue eyes too) and all was resolved at a cost of €80 for a new gas regulator and a bottle of Camping Gaz. Herman had helped us get Freda onto our pitch so we suggested they came “to ours” for a drink that evening - after four bottles of wine we decided to have a BBQ and we rolled into bed by 1.00 am; although nothing worse than trying to put beds up in a tiny caravan after a few vinos. I have to add at this point that I had to make Graham share his “Porky Whites” (English sausages bought from home).. Herman and Anke were great company and well travelled. We hope to catch up with them at our next stop in Santiago del Compostello.

Weather has been a mixed bag; Friday, Saturday and Sunday were good at around 20 degrees BUT IT POURED SUNDAY NIGHT (we didn’t mind) BUT ALL MONDAY TOO? Normally I would be tearing my hair out but when you’re away for 3½ months you can wait for the weather to change.

Sunday - Comillas is around 18 kilometres from Santillana Del Mar – a pretty harbour tucked into a headland with a nice sandy beach. We were surprised that’s all it seemed to be. However, Eric put us right: “Did you see the old town?” “What old town we chorused”. Next day, Monday, we returned and were so glad we did. I’m running out of superlatives here, but again it was a beautiful ancient town built around several small squares (unfortunately on a steep hillside but we’re getting used to climbing and in our next life may come back as goats!). We were charmed by Gaudi’s house (although it was slightly spooky too) - “El Capricho de Gaudi” up on a hillside near the Palacio de Sobrellano, built for Antonio Lopez y Lopez, the first Marquis of Comillas, in 1881 (although looked much older). I hope you’re getting all this – it’s better than the Rough Guide! Best part of the day was an incredible menu del dia in a typical bar packed tight with Spaniards. The problem was we couldn’t understand the menu, so took pot luck. We did recognise the word “sopa” - soup, for our first course, which was served, piping hot, in a large tin bowl (with ladle) and plonked on the table with our wine – €4 for the bottle! Fabulous atmosphere: families with well behaved children, people smoking, chatting and laughing. The din was amazing, quite unlike France, where dining can take place in an almost reverential silence!

San Vicente de la Barquera was our next port of call in a pleasant spot 10 kilometres along the coast from Comillas. The approach to the town is dramatic, with the town marooned on both sides by the sea and entered via a long causeway across the Rio Escudo. Boats bobbed about in the estuary and we decided to walk up to the highest point at Castle Rey – another 1 in 4 hill! We looked at a rather ramshackle house high up on the hillside and debated for five minutes whether this could be for us – but NO.

On Tuesday we braved the weather (which was overcast but at least wasn’t raining) and went to Santander (above), taking the local narrow gauge train run by a private company called “Reve”. That was fun, but sadly Santander wasn’t. Apparently most of Santander was burnt down in 1941 and apart from one or two remaining old cobbled streets that was it. A pleasant enough harbour front used by Brittany Ferries for the UK run, but too big and without character. (Did find a fantastic Tapas Bar – glass of vino tinto (good stuff) and tapas 7€ for TWO). Nuff said!

By Wednesday however, things were looking up - WE WOKE UP TO SUNSHINE. So this had to be the day we travelled into the mountainous Picos de Europa, declared a national park in its entirety in 1995. It may not be the highest mountain range in Spain but is a favourite with walkers, hikers and trekkers. We travelled along the coast road to Unquira and branched off on the scenic N621 to a small town in the foothills of the Picos range, Potes. Potes is the base camp for all the climbers, and shops reflect this – oiled wool hats, gloves, walking boots, sticks, outdoor camping gear, etc. They also catered for the cows; masses of cow bells in all sizes (must have one before we go home to put outside the back door) – mind you it would be heard throughout the village - they echo everywhere. Potes is on the confluence of two rivers with the old (small) town going up into the hills. Lovely cobbled streets, tapas bars, hostels and riverside bars with the fabulous snowed-topped Picos Mountains as a backdrop. I unfailingly manage to find the best places to eat and drink – just make for the ones that are packed with Spaniards.

We ended up in Cafe Llorente, balconies dripping with geraniums and perched on the side of a small gorge looking down into the river. We sat on the balcony with dos vino Rosas watching the clouds move around the mountain peaks providing occasional glimpses of snow between the crags. Our menu del dia was incredible value and excellent. Starter – vegetable stew for Graham (delicious) and I had sausage and bean stew (out of this world), followed by ham, bacon, eggs and chips, and fish and salad respectively. We declined a dessert – so for two courses, four glasses of delicious vino Rosas, coffee and water = 23€ (yes for two!).

As we headed out to Reina (not a very exciting village) the view of the lake and mountains took our breath away. The mountain road was incredible, firstly following the course of a fast flowing river through a tight gorge (quite claustrophobic), and then slowly up to the highest peaks. It took us ages because every turn in the road brought a new delight and we had to stop to take video and photos. At the very top of the highest peaks the temperature had dropped from 33°C to 20°C (which was actually quite pleasant after the heat) – the wild flowers were spectacular – unfortunately I could only identify a few but they were stunning. I was so moved I had to do the Julie Andrews bit from Sound of Music – fortunately we were alone at the time, although Graham got me on video!

LIFE ON THE CAMPSITE – meeting loads of really nice people who are always ready to lend a hand. Came back from a jaunt a few days ago to find a Spanish chap (with no English but then we have no Spanish – Graham is supposed to be learning!) had saved our awning. It was a really windy day and it had turned inside out and was almost suffocating poor Freda. He’d tied it down for us with guy ropes... Washing up – yes, we could do this in the caravan but there is hardly room. We have to walk 100 yards or so and stand at the communal sinks – bonjour-ing and hola-ing to each new-comer. You won’t believe this, but washing up can be fun! Although we are on a hillside we are surrounded by farms in the valleys around. Unfortunately they have been muck spreading and the smell – let me see – indescribable at times! We hear the cow bells in the distance and an occasional dog barking but it‘s wonderfully quiet you can’t help but relax.
A lovely Australian couple called Terry and Kay (from Queensland) arrived on the site a couple of days before we were due to leave. They have a HUGE motor home with double wheel axles at the back and tow a small Fiat behind them. It’s their home for six months of the year while they tour round Europe. However, Terry needs regular access to the Internet via “wiffi” as he calls Wi-Fi, so decided to move into a site in a seaside village, Suances, about 8km away – but not before inviting us to their new site for a BBQ on our last night. They “cooked a chook” (chicken) on their BBQ – absolutely delicious and Kay made some equally delicious and very sophisticated salads. We’ve also learned a thing or two about washing up! They use wet wipes to clean most of the plates and cutlery so all that’s required is a quick wash with minimum water afterwards. We left around 11pm as we had an early start to Santiago del Compostela next day.

WHAT A JOURNEY! 360 miles, which doesn’t sound a lot - the roads were perfect and we just stopped for a couple of quick wees and grabbed a tortilla for lunch (yes the diet has officially ended). Graham was so intrigued by the audio book playing on the car stereo that he didn’t bother to change out of sixth gear as we drove up this enormously long and tortuous mountain road. I was asleep at the time but woke to find the car doing about 25 mph in third gear and crawling painfully up and onwards. It was touch and go get to the top and we were on a motorway with no hard shoulder so Graham didn’t like to stop. Eventually we parked up on an exit road and gave the car a breather (we needed one too). Thankfully, after a few minutes, it started first time and was back to its old self. Graham thinks that the car’s engine management system closed down the turbos because he was in the wrong gear and it just needed resetting. We were miles from anywhere high in the mountains and I dread to think how we would have managed. Of course it was blisteringly hot without any shade.

We eventually reached the campsite at 5.00pm having left Santillana del Mar at 9.30am. We arrived to find the reception area redirected and Graham, in his wisdom, drove under a plastic line barrier thinking that was the way to the campsite. WE FOUND OURSELVES ON A 1:3 HILL about as wide as the path down the side of our house but with hairpin bends. The car struggled manfully but we just started to roll backwards. Really scary! Graham forced the car on and nearly burnt out the clutch – the car stank for hours until it cooled down! In the end and with the help of some nice Dutch campers we unloaded both the Jag and Freda and, with about six other campers, pushed them up the incline.

Anyway, the campsite is nice – and Graham is delighted he can play with his toys as there’s Wi-Fi. The pitches are on terraces and we chose one next to the toilets (from the ridiculous to the sublime) and near the cafe area (big mistake as they were partying until after midnight). However, I’m too terrified to suggest we move the van after yesterday’s experiences. I said to Graham that when we leave and drive down these incredibly steep terraces Freda will probably overtake us!Anyway, that’s that for now.

Watch this space in a week or so for the next thrilling instalment!?